Luang Prabang Laos

After two wonderful days on the slow boat along the Mekong River, we docked at the Luang Prabang port and caught a tuk-tuk to our accommodation, the Lao Wooden House Guest House. Our initial plan was to stay for five days, but we were so enchanted by Luang Prabang that we ended up extending our visit to ten days.

Luang Prabang, with its laid-back charm, quickly won us over. Our afternoons were spent enjoying a cold Beerlao by the river, and our evenings were filled with delicious meals at the town’s excellent restaurants. We even discovered a delightful wine bar that served some excellent wines, making it the perfect spot for our evening aperitif. Our guesthouse, located in the heart of the old town on a quiet street between the Mekong River and the historic center, was a true gem. Our room was spacious and comfortable, complete with a lovely balcony running along the front of the building, ideal for enjoying breakfast or simply relaxing.

While Luang Prabang’s restaurants often featured Thai dishes masquerading as Lao cuisine and numerous French eateries, we were determined to find authentic Lao food. We were rewarded with some fantastic discoveries:

Tamarind We enjoyed this restaurant so much that we dined here twice and even spent a day at their cooking school. Tamarind is renowned for its beautiful, authentic Lao food. On our second visit, we opted for the set menu, which was a taste sensation and a great introduction to Lao cuisine. The meal started with Gaeng Nor Mai, a bamboo shoot soup brimming with vegetables, mushrooms, and herbs. The next course featured a variety of local specialties: sweet, chewy dried buffalo, Khái pâen (river weed fried with poppy seeds and garlic), Luang Prabang sausage, and Jeow Mak (a type of salsa). The Jeow Mak came in tomato and smoked eggplant varieties, served with sticky rice. The key is to form a small ball of sticky rice with your fingers and then use your thumb to scoop the salsa onto the rice without leaving any salsa behind.

For the main course, we enjoyed Mok Pa (fish steamed in banana leaves with a spicy herb paste), Oua Si Khai (stuffed lemongrass with minced chicken), and a delicious pumpkin dish cooked with herbs and fish sauce. Dessert was Khao Gam, purple sticky rice cooked in coconut sauce with tamarind paste—a wonderfully sweet ending to a memorable meal. Tamarind also offered a decent red wine by the glass.

Tum Tum Cheng This restaurant, run by a local chef with international experience, was a bit out of the way but well worth the search. We enjoyed superb Pan Gai Yoh (pork spring rolls), fish steamed with lemongrass, and áw lám (Luang Prabang stew) with beef. The stew, made with eggplant, mushrooms, and herbs, had a slightly bitter taste from the wood chips used during cooking, which are believed to have anti-malarial properties.

Mekong Fish Café Our favorite local spot was the Mekong Fish Café, located down by the river. With terraces at different levels along the Mekong’s banks, it was the perfect place to sip a Beerlao while watching the river flow by. The food was honest and good, though more Thai than Lao, and they made a fantastic toasted cheese and tomato baguette. The staff were delightful and greeted us with big smiles every time.

Drinking and Exploring As a wine lover, I was thrilled to find a decent wine bar close to our guesthouse. Although I never discovered its name, it was opposite the renowned French restaurant L’Elephant and offered wines from around the world. We also discovered great pho at Tables by Jasmin on the main street of the old town.

Beyond dining, we rented bikes to explore the old town and spent a day at the Tamarind cooking school. We also visited the stunning Tat Kuang Si Waterfall. In the dry season, it’s a popular spot for swimming, but in the wet season, it was a powerful torrent. Nearby, we visited the Bear Lao sanctuary, which rescues bears from bile farms and poachers. Meeting the sanctuary’s manager and learning about the bile trade was a sobering experience, highlighting the ongoing plight of these animals.

Other days were spent wandering the town, visiting various Wats, and soaking in the tranquil beauty of Luang Prabang. As much as we loved our time there, it eventually came time to move on to our next destination: Vang Vieng.