Kars | A Few Days In Kars Turkey

I wasn’t sure what to expect on this journey, but we traveled through the most spectacular countryside, with towering mountains and deep gorges housing rushing rivers. We climbed nearly 2,500 meters and crossed alpine meadows where nomadic beekeepers tended their hives.

This bus ride turned out to be one of the highlights of our trip so far.

Turkey is investing heavily in roads and dams in this remote corner of the country. We were awestruck by the engineering feats, with roads perched on mountainsides and connected by tunnel after tunnel. A series of dams have been constructed to capture snowmelt and generate hydro-power.

We stopped along the way for a delicious chicken kebap, and seven hours later, we arrived at the bus station in Kars.

Kars, Turkey

Kars, a lovely city on the Eastern Anatolian Plain, is the highest city in Turkey, situated on a high plateau in northeastern Turkey.

Our primary reason for visiting Kars was to catch the Dogu Express to Ankara and to see the nearby ancient ruins of Ani. Though we only had two full days, we quickly grew fond of Kars and would have happily spent a week there. The people were incredibly friendly, hospitable, and curious about us. Many didn’t know where Australia was, and those who did were amazed that we had come to Kars.

We had read that Kars was very conservative, and one of our traveling friends had been advised to cover her hair and wear long sleeves and pants. However, we found the youth dressed similarly to those in Sydney or Melbourne, while the older generation was more conservative. It seemed very much a personal choice.

We ventured out to the ancient ruins of Ani on a minibus. Ani was once the capital of Armenia, rivaling Constantinople in power and wealth and an important stop on the Silk Route. The city was fought over by multiple armies, including the Byzantine, Persians, and Mongols, and was largely destroyed by an earthquake in 1319. Today, what remains of Ani sits on a vast, empty plain with Mt. Ararat looming in the distance.

Another day, we wandered up to Kars Castle, which offered spectacular views over the town and across the plain. While we were there, the midday call to prayer began from all the mosques across the city—it sounded amazing.

We enjoyed some good food (although by then we were growing a bit tired of meat cooked on a stick served with tomato, cucumber, and white cheese), drank tons of tea, and even found a shop selling beer and wine.

Then, at midnight on Sunday, we boarded the Dogu Express for the 40-hour, 1,310 km trip to Ankara.

For information on traveling in Turkey, read our Turkey Travel Guide.