Ephesus: Walking Through 2,000 Years of Roman History
Ephesus (Efes in Turkish) is the most impressive ancient city in the eastern Mediterranean and one of the best-preserved Greco-Roman sites in the world. Walking down its marble-paved streets, past the towering facade of the Library of Celsus, through the massive Great Theatre, and into the lavish Terrace Houses is as close as you can get to walking through a Roman city as it was 1,900 years ago. One of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World — the Temple of Artemis — once stood here. A UNESCO World Heritage site since 2015, Ephesus is an unmissable stop on any Turkish itinerary.
A Brief History of Ephesus
Founded as an Ionian Greek colony in the 10th century BCE, Ephesus grew into one of the most important cities of the ancient world. Under Roman rule, it became the capital of the province of Asia and the second-largest city in the empire, with a population exceeding 250,000. It was a major centre of early Christianity — the Apostle Paul lived and preached here, and the Gospel of John is believed to have been written nearby. The city was gradually abandoned after its harbour silted up, leaving its marble monuments remarkably well-preserved beneath layers of sediment.
Cost Breakdown: Visiting Ephesus
Most visitors base themselves in the charming nearby town of Selçuk, which has excellent budget accommodation and easy transport connections.
Budget per person per day (including Ephesus):
- Budget Traveller: €30–50
- Mid-Range: €60–90
- Comfort: €100–150
Sample Costs:
- Ephesus entrance (main site): €20
- Terrace Houses supplement: €15 (worth every kuruş)
- Guesthouse in Selçuk (double room): €20–40 per night
- Meal at a Selçuk lokanta: €5–10
- Bus Izmir Airport to Selçuk: €6
- Sirince village dolmuş: €2
Top Attractions in Ephesus
1. Library of Celsus
The Library of Celsus is the most iconic structure in Ephesus and one of the most photographed ancient buildings in the world. Built between 114 and 117 CE as a monumental tomb and library for Tiberius Julius Celsus Polemaeanus, a Roman senator and governor of Asia, it once held over 12,000 scrolls. The two-storey facade has been meticulously restored, with four statues representing Wisdom (Sophia), Knowledge (Episteme), Intelligence (Ennoia), and Virtue (Arete) standing in niches between the columns.
Location: Lower end of Curetes Street, where it meets the Marble Way.
Highlights:
- The stunning 2-storey restored facade — the most photographed spot in Ephesus
- The crypt containing Celsus’s marble sarcophagus beneath the library floor
- The clever double-wall design that protected scrolls from moisture
- The four alcoves that once held the library’s 12,000 scrolls
- The statues on the facade — originals in the Ephesus Museum, casts here
2. The Great Theatre
Ephesus’s Great Theatre is a colossal Hellenistic-Roman structure that could seat 25,000 spectators — making it the largest outdoor theatre in the ancient world. Carved into the slope of Mount Pion, its 66 rows of marble seating rise dramatically above the stage. This is where the Apostle Paul famously preached to the Ephesians, and where riots erupted when silversmiths protested that his message threatened their trade in statues of the goddess Artemis.
Location: At the entrance end of the Marble Way, opposite the upper agora.
Highlights:
- Dramatic scale — sit in the top row for perspective
- Excellent acoustics — you can hear someone speaking from the stage at the top
- The stage building with its three-storey facade (partially restored)
- The harbour once reached the theatre’s edge — imagine ships in the foreground
- The connection to early Christian history
3. Terrace Houses (Yamaç Evler)
The Terrace Houses are the VIP section of Ephesus — the luxurious hillside villas of the city’s wealthiest citizens. These multi-storey houses feature beautifully preserved wall frescoes, intricate mosaic floors, marble facades, and advanced Roman plumbing (running water, heated floors, and private baths). A protective canopy covers the excavation, and elevated walkways let you look down into the rooms as archaeologists uncovered them. This is the most vivid glimpse into Roman domestic life anywhere in the Mediterranean.
Location: Opposite Hadrian’s Temple on Curetes Street — look for the covered walkway.
Highlights:
- Intricate mosaic floors — geometric patterns and mythological scenes
- Wall frescoes with birds, flowers, and theatrical masks in vivid colour
- Advanced underfloor heating (hypocaust) system still visible
- Private bathrooms with marble basins and terra cotta plumbing
- Stunning views over the library and lower city from the upper terraces
4. Temple of Artemis
The Temple of Artemis at Ephesus was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World — the largest and most magnificent Greek temple ever built, four times larger than the Parthenon. Completed around 550 BCE, it had 127 marble columns, each 18 metres tall, and was decorated with bronze statues and intricate carvings. Today, only a single reconstructed column remains on the marshy site near Selçuk, surrounded by reeds and storks. But standing there, imagining the original, is a powerful experience.
Location: A 15-minute walk from Selçuk town centre, near the Selçuk bus station.
Highlights:
- Standing where one of the Seven Wonders once stood
- The single reconstructed column — a humbling survival
- The marshy setting with nesting storks in spring and summer
- The nearby Ephesus Museum with artefacts from the temple
- Free entrance — just show up and absorb the history
5. The Scholastica Baths & Curetes Street
Curetes Street is Ephesus’s main artery, a marble-paved road flanked by monumental columns, statues, fountains, and the entrances to public buildings and shops. The Scholastica Baths, a Roman bath complex on the north side, show the full bathing sequence — from the frigidarium (cold room) through the tepidarium (warm room) to the caldarium (hot room). Walking Curetes Street is the closest you’ll get to strolling through a Roman city as it was.
Location: Curetes Street runs from the Hercules Gate to the Library of Celsus.
Highlights:
- The marble-paved street with original ruts from Roman chariot wheels
- The monumental fountain of Trajan (Nymphaeum Traiani)
- Hadrian’s Temple with its beautifully carved arched doorway
- The public latrines (a must-see for the engineering alone)
- Rows of shop foundations with storage amphorae still visible
6. House of the Virgin Mary
Perched on Mount Koressos (Bülbüldağı), this small stone house is believed to be the final home of the Virgin Mary, who is said to have spent her last years here with the Apostle John. The house was discovered based on the visions of the 19th-century German nun Anne Catherine Emmerich. Today it’s a humble stone chapel, a pilgrimage site for both Christians and Muslims. The atmosphere is peaceful and contemplative, surrounded by forest and mountain views.
Location: 9 km from Selçuk, up a winding mountain road.
Highlights:
- The small stone chapel with its simple interior and candlelit atmosphere
- The wishing wall where pilgrims leave written prayers
- The sacred spring whose water is believed to have healing properties
- The peaceful forested setting away from the crowds of Ephesus
- The mountain views over the Selçuk valley
7. Şirince Village
Şirince is a beautiful hillside village 10 km from Selçuk, known for its well-preserved Greek-style stone houses, cobblestone lanes, and local fruit wines. Originally a Greek Orthodox settlement called Kırkınca (meaning “ugly”), it was renamed Şirince (“pleasant”) after the population exchange of 1923. Today, it’s a delightful escape where you can taste mulberry, peach, pomegranate, and even artichoke wines in cosy tasting rooms.
Location: 10 km east of Selçuk, a 20-minute dolmuş ride.
Highlights:
- Picturesque stone houses with red-tiled roofs and colourful shutters
- Fruit wine tasting — mulberry, peach, pomegranate, and dozens more
- Local olive oil soap, handmade ceramics, and woven textiles
- The hilltop Church of St John the Baptist with valley views
- A less touristy, more authentic atmosphere than nearby beach resorts
Disclaimer: Prices are approximate and subject to change. Ephesus is exposed — bring sun protection, water, and comfortable walking shoes. The Terrace Houses have an additional entrance fee beyond the main site ticket.