This was our second trip down the Mekong River on the famous slow boat from Thailand into Laos. We loved it so much the first time that we decided to start our Laos adventure the same way again. And we were not disappointed. The boat was comfortable, there were only 9 other passengers so we had plenty of space to stretch out, and the food served onboard was simple, fresh, and genuinely delicious Lao home-cooking prepared by the boat owner’s wife and served by their kids.

The biggest difference this time was the border crossing. Instead of the adventurous tiny longtail boat across the river from Chiang Khong, we took a bus over the new Thai-Laos Friendship Bridge. While much more efficient and comfortable, it definitely took away some of the old-school adventure feeling. I also worry this new bridge will slowly kill the charming little town of Chiang Khong, which used to rely heavily on backpackers crossing the border.

We departed at 10am and within minutes one of our fellow passengers — a jolly German we nicknamed the “Mekong Whiskey King” — pulled out a big bottle of local Lao whiskey and started pouring drinks for everyone. My lips were numb before we even reached the first bend in the river!

The journey itself is incredibly scenic. For most of the first day you glide slowly with Thailand on one side and Laos on the other. Then the boat turns deeper into Laos, cruising through pristine jungle with tiny riverside villages dotted along the banks. These villages have no road access — everything comes in and out by boat. The people live very simple, traditional lives. It feels like stepping back in time.

We stopped at a small minority village and also at the famous Pak Ou Caves, about 25 km north of Luang Prabang. These caves contain over 4,000 Buddha statues placed by devotees over centuries. It’s a truly spiritual and atmospheric place, especially after climbing the steep staircase to the upper cave.

The countryside is stunning, but it’s changing fast. New roads and bridges are being built everywhere. I’m very glad we did this trip when we did — before the slow boat experience disappears and tourist buses take over the route.

Pak Beng Stopover

We spent the night in Pak Beng, a tiny riverside village that exists mainly to serve slow boat travelers. There’s not much there — just a few guesthouses, restaurants, and a small market. Before dinner we walked up the hill to find the brand new ATM, which looked completely out of place shining brightly against the backdrop of bamboo and thatch houses. The contrast was surreal.

After getting some Lao Kip we headed straight to Sabaidee Restaurant, where the sign proudly says “My wife is a very good cook” — and she really is! We had eaten there on our previous trip and it was just as good this time.

But the real drama came after dinner. Back at the hotel I realised I had lost my French credit/debit card. I panicked and ran back up the road searching for it with no luck. Just as I was preparing myself to call the bank from the middle of nowhere in Laos, the restaurant owner came running to our hotel. A tourist had found my card in the street and had gone from restaurant to restaurant trying to find the owner. He even asked British girls who remembered seeing me looking for it. In the end, the restaurant owner checked three different hotels until he found us. We got the card back thanks to the honesty and kindness of complete strangers.

Such wonderful people.