It had been quite a few years since I last visited Rome, and once again, I fell completely under her spell. The Eternal City never disappoints — a little grubby and worn, busy and noisy, yet so full of life and irresistible charm.

We stayed in a lovely apartment in Trastevere, the vibrant neighborhood across the river from the historic center. With its ancient roots and history as a melting pot of cultures, Trastevere’s winding cobbled streets and colorful old houses have kept their authentic character, making it one of the most delightful areas to stay in Rome.

Each morning we started with a cappuccino and cornetti at the corner bar, and returned in the evening for our aperitivo spritz. This simple daily routine became a comforting anchor amid the city’s energy.

We embraced our inner tourists and explored the iconic sights: wandering through Piazza di Campo de’ Fiori and Piazza Navona. One day we climbed the hill behind Trastevere for a stunning panoramic view of the city before continuing on to the Vatican. Standing in Piazza San Pietro brought back many happy memories from the years I lived in Italy.

By the end of the second day, we were ready for a slower pace. We stayed local in Trastevere, relaxing in small piazzas with coffee, wine, or tea, and simply soaking in the atmosphere.

Culinary highlights included discovering a very authentic local Roman trattoria serving classic dishes true to the city’s heritage. We also found an outstanding gelateria just around the corner from our apartment — the creamy, flavorful gelato quickly became a daily treat.