After a month in the sweltering heat of Mérida, we were more than ready for a change of scenery and climate. We boarded a bus for the long 18-hour journey to San Cristóbal de las Casas, high in the cool mountains of Chiapas. Because of security concerns on the more direct route via Palenque, the bus took a longer but safer path. The scenery, especially as we climbed into the mountains surrounding San Cristóbal, made the extended journey more than worthwhile.

Upon arrival, we checked into our Airbnb — a charming apartment perched high on a building with sweeping views over the town and the surrounding mountains. The cooler mountain air was an incredible relief after Mérida’s oppressive heat, and we quickly settled into the relaxed rhythm of San Cristóbal.

The town captured our hearts almost immediately. Its compact centre is perfect for exploring on foot, with narrow cobblestone streets lined with colourful colonial buildings. One of our first visits was to the beautiful Cathedral of San Cristóbal Mártir, a 16th-century icon with a striking Baroque and Moorish façade full of intricate carvings and vibrant colours.

We also explored the impressive Convent of Santo Domingo (founded in 1547), with its ornate architecture and peaceful courtyards. The attached museum displays a wonderful collection of indigenous textiles, giving real insight into local culture and traditions.

San Cristóbal’s markets were a highlight. The Mercado de Dulces y Artesanías overflowed with colourful textiles, handicrafts, and traditional sweets, while the larger municipal market offered an abundance of fresh produce, fruits, vegetables, and spices that made cooking at home a joy.

The town’s culinary scene pleasantly surprised us with its diversity. We enjoyed everything from authentic Vietnamese pho and Lebanese mezze to Indian curries and French pastries, alongside excellent regional Chiapas dishes.