Sulmona Italy Stories

We arrived in Sulmona late on a Saturday afternoon under a sky dark and foreboding with severe storms in the forecast. We found a car park not far from our apartment and managed to check in just before the storm hit—barely in the nick of time. The apartment was delightful, a spacious, light-filled space right in the middle of the old town and just a stone’s throw from the main square, Piazza Garibaldi. From the balcony, we enjoyed views across the piazza to the nearby mountains.

Later that night, we ventured out into the storm, now raging around us, to find some dinner. This seemingly simple task proved far more difficult than anticipated. We ran from restaurant to restaurant in the driving rain, only to discover that everywhere was fully booked. Eventually, we found a bar where the staff graciously put together a couple of basic pizzas and served them with a nice bottle of local red wine.

Having no real expectations of Sulmona, we were pleasantly surprised when we ventured out the next day. We discovered a beautiful ancient town full of incredible buildings, an abundance of cafes and restaurants, and delightfully friendly people.

We quickly settled into the rhythm of Sulmona. We went out and about early to beat the fierce summer heat, then hid away until evening when it seemed the entire town took to the streets for their evening passeggiata. We explored the town and discovered our favorite cafes, restaurants, and produce stores. We shopped bi-weekly at the market and cooked many of our meals at home. Mornings often found us at Cafe Venti Settembre, and in the cooler evenings, we wandered out for an aperitivo at a local bar.

We dined at a few lovely restaurants, such as Don Cicco and Bella Mbriana, but mostly we preferred to prepare our meals at home using the incredible fresh produce from the many local stores. The tiny nearby deli was a treasure trove of delicious delicacies. Within minutes of our apartment, there was a butcher, a fish shop, a homemade pasta store, the fruit and veg man, and a bread shop. And of course, the market operated twice a week. It was a cook’s dream.

Exploring Pacentro

One day, we headed off to the nearby and very pretty town of Pacentro. Nestled in the heart of the Majella National Park, Pacentro is a picturesque hilltop village that offers breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. The town is famous for its well-preserved medieval castle, Castello Caldora, which dominates the skyline. We wandered through narrow streets, discovering hidden courtyards and picturesque squares. The local cuisine, featuring traditional Abruzzese dishes, was a highlight of our visit. We enjoyed the tranquil atmosphere and the warm hospitality of the locals, making our day trip to Pacentro a memorable experience.

Visiting Pescocostanza

Another day, we ventured into the mountains to the popular and bustling town of Pescocostanza. A ski resort in the winter and a hiker’s paradise in the summer, Pescocostanza boasts lovely old buildings, cobbled streets, and a lively central piazza. The town was bustling with tourists, and prices reflected its popularity. Despite the crowds, we enjoyed exploring the charming streets and soaking in the vibrant atmosphere. Pescocostanza’s blend of natural beauty and historical charm made it a worthwhile destination.

Embracing the Sulmona Lifestyle

Mostly, we were content to stay in Sulmona, sitting in the piazza with a coffee or drink and watching Italy go by. The town’s rich history, stunning architecture, and welcoming locals made our stay truly special. We quickly embraced the Sulmona lifestyle, relishing the slow pace and the opportunity to immerse ourselves in the local culture.

And then, just like that, our month in Sulmona was over. We found ourselves packing our bags, preparing to head north back into Tuscany. Our time in Abruzzo, exploring Sulmona, Pacentro, and Pescocostanza, left us with unforgettable memories and a longing to return.

Find out more about Sulmona here.