THAILAND
THE MAGIC HOUSE: CHUMPHON
A Journey Through South East Asia
Leaving Koh Samui, we embarked on a ferry to Chumphon, choosing to pause rather than rush on like most travelers. Despite initial doubts, Magic House on Thung Makham Noi Beach proved a hidden gem, offering tranquility, great food, and stunning views. As others hurried past, we embraced slow travel, appreciating the beauty they missed. Though we wished to stay longer, our next adventure awaited. A minivan to Prachuap Khiri Khan marked the next chapter in our unplanned journey.
Thung Makham Noi Beach cHUMPHON A VAGABOND LIFE
Slowing Down in Chumphon: A Hidden Gem Between Journeys
It was time to leave Koh Samui and move on to our next destination. With bags packed and a sense of anticipation for the journey ahead, we caught a taxi to the Samui North Ferry Port. The port was situated on a picturesque beach, fringed with golden sands and swaying palm trees, offering a stunning backdrop for the next leg of our travels.
As we arrived, the ticket and waiting area was absolutely packed with people. Travelers of all kinds—backpackers, families, and tour groups—were jostling to validate their tickets and secure a place to sit while they waited. The atmosphere was chaotic, with a mixture of excitement and impatience filling the air.
After validating our own tickets, we managed to find a relatively quiet corner to sit and watch the crowds. With a coffee in one hand and a rather unremarkable chocolate muffin in the other, we observed the bustling scene before us. Many people struggled with oversized suitcases, wandering around in a daze as they tried to figure out where they needed to go and how best to get there.
Unlike many transportation hubs, there was no electronic departure board to indicate when it was time to board. Instead, the staff would signal when it was time, relying on word of mouth and hand gestures to direct passengers towards the ferry. Eventually, our turn came, and boarding began.
What happened next was something straight out of Wacky Races. As soon as the announcement was made, the crowd surged toward the pier in a frenzied rush, pushing and shoving to get to the front as if the ferry would somehow depart sooner for those who boarded first. We chose to wait, letting the throng move ahead of us before making our way down the pier and onto the ferry at a more relaxed pace.
Like the ferry we had taken to Samui, this one was absolutely packed. We were lucky to find comfortable seats and settled in for what would be a four-hour journey to the mainland. The ferry ride itself was pleasant enough at first, with the calm waters and sea breeze providing a welcome respite from the heat. However, as time went on, the cabin became hot and stuffy, making the journey feel longer than it actually was.
After a quick stop at Koh Tao to pick up and drop off passengers, we finally arrived at our destination: Lomprayah Pier in Chumphon. As the ferry docked, the inevitable exodus began. People rushed off the boat, barely looking up to appreciate the stunning beach where the pier was located or the breathtaking landscape surrounding them. Instead, they were singularly focused on finding their assigned buses—many of which were bound for Bangkok or other major destinations.
But we had a different plan. Unlike most of the passengers who were eager to get straight onto the next leg of their journey, we had decided to take it slow. I have a personal travel rule: four hours of travel per day is plenty. With that in mind, I had booked us a hotel just 100 meters from the ferry port. The decision to stay overnight in Chumphon meant we could rest, relax, and enjoy our surroundings rather than rushing on to the next destination.
I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect from our accommodation. The hotel photos on the booking site hadn’t been particularly promising, so I had only reserved one night as a precaution.
To our delight, the hotel—aptly named Magic House—was indeed magical. The moment we arrived, I regretted not booking more than one night. Nestled right on Thung Makham Noi Beach, it was a tranquil haven, offering lovely rooms and an unbeatable location. Best of all, it had a fantastic restaurant overlooking the sea, serving delicious food, ice-cold beer, and surprisingly good cocktails.
Before dinner, we took a leisurely stroll along the beach, watching the sun dip below the horizon. A few local families were scattered along the shore, enjoying relaxed picnics and playing in the sand. As we passed, they smiled and nodded in greeting, a small but genuine gesture of warmth and friendliness.
As I walked, I couldn’t help but reflect on all the people who had rushed off the ferry without so much as a glance at the beauty surrounding them. Their only focus had been on getting to their next big-ticket destination, sticking rigidly to their itineraries without leaving room for the unexpected. What were they missing by traveling this way? In their eagerness to tick off the next location on their list, they had bypassed the opportunity to experience something truly special.
That night, we enjoyed a delicious dinner at the hotel’s restaurant, savoring the fresh flavors and the soothing sound of waves crashing gently on the shore. With full bellies and content hearts, we fell into bed, grateful for the decision to pause and appreciate this hidden gem of a place.
The next morning, after a leisurely breakfast, it was time to say goodbye to Magic House. I felt a pang of regret as we checked out—this was the kind of place where we could have easily spent a few more days, unwinding and soaking in the peaceful atmosphere. Unfortunately, we could not extend our stay as we had already booked our next accommodation. The road was calling, and our journey had to continue.
We caught a taxi into the town of Chumphon, a 40-minute ride to the minivan station where we would board a bus to Prachuap Khiri Khan. As seasoned travelers, we knew one universal truth: travel involves waiting. Whether it’s at train stations, bus terminals, airports, or ferry ports, there is always a certain amount of time spent in limbo. That day in Chumphon was no exception. We waited for an hour and a half, watching as nothing much happened. Then, finally, the bus driver heaved himself out of his chair, shuffled over to the vehicle, climbed in, started the engine, and gave us the signal to board.
With a sense of relief, we climbed in and settled down for the four-hour journey to our next stop—Prachuap Khiri Khan. We had never heard of it before. It was just a small beach town on the Thai coast, not a well-known tourist destination, but that was part of the appeal. Sometimes the best experiences come from places you never planned to visit.
Let’s see what it has in store for us.