San Miguel Mexico: Mixed Impressions

After our time in San Cristóbal de las Casas, we set our sights on San Miguel de Allende, a town often touted as a must-visit in Mexico. The journey was a long one. We caught a bus from San Cristóbal to Mexico City, a grueling 16-hour trip that ended up taking 18 hours due to multiple stops by immigration officers checking passengers’ documents. At one point, we were even stopped by the national guard and forced to pay a bribe—a stark reminder of the corruption that still plagues parts of Mexico.

By the time we reached Mexico City, we were exhausted, but we had to push on. We changed buses and embarked on the final leg of our journey, a four-hour ride north to San Miguel de Allende. After nearly 24 hours on the road, we finally arrived, utterly shattered.

Our Airbnb was a welcome sight. It was a lovely, modern house situated in a quiet neighborhood, complete with a roof garden that offered panoramic views of the surrounding area. However, the house wasn’t without its quirks. During one of the sudden rainstorms that San Miguel is known for, the roof garden flooded, sending water cascading into the house. We spent part of our stay mopping up the water and trying to protect our belongings from the deluge.

Despite this minor inconvenience, the house was comfortable and well-equipped, providing a peaceful retreat from the bustling town center. After dropping off our bags, we ventured out to find something to eat. Just a short walk from our Airbnb, we discovered a charming local café that quickly became our go-to spot for breakfast and coffee. The café had a cozy atmosphere, with warm lighting and comfortable seating, and the staff were friendly and welcoming. They served delicious pastries and strong, aromatic coffee that helped revive us after our long journey.

For dinner, we found a fantastic Italian restaurant nearby. The place had a rustic charm, with exposed brick walls, wooden tables, and soft candlelight. The menu offered a variety of traditional Italian dishes, and we were delighted with our meal. The pasta was freshly made, the sauces were rich and flavorful, and the wine selection was impressive. It was a much-needed break from the bus ride, and we left the restaurant feeling rejuvenated.

As we explored San Miguel de Allende over the next few days, our initial excitement began to wane. The town is undeniably beautiful, with its well-preserved colonial architecture, cobblestone streets, and colorful facades. The Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, the iconic pink sandstone church that dominates the main plaza, is stunning, and we spent time admiring its intricate design. However, the town’s overwhelming westernization left us feeling a bit disappointed.

The main plaza felt more like a slice of suburban America than an authentic Mexican town. A Starbucks occupied one corner, and the main supermarket was housed in a shopping mall that could have been plucked from anywhere in the U.S. The influx of expatriates and tourists has brought a level of commercialism that, for us, detracted from the town’s charm. While San Miguel de Allende may appeal to those seeking a more familiar, western experience, it didn’t quite meet our expectations of an authentic Mexican adventure.

In the end, San Miguel de Allende was a mix of highs and lows. The comfort of our Airbnb, the delightful local café, and the excellent Italian restaurant were highlights of our stay. However, the town itself, while undeniably beautiful, left us yearning for a more genuine cultural experience. It’s a place that certainly has its appeal, but for those seeking the true essence of Mexico, it might not be the ideal destination.