In any country that uses minibuses to ferry people around, there is a general rule — there is always room for one more. This was certainly true as we departed Sheki in Azerbaijan on a packed minibus bound for Balakan, the town closest to the Azerbaijan–Georgia border. There were just six of us, so for a few extra manat the driver kindly took us the extra 16 km all the way to the border, saving us the hassle of finding a taxi.

The northern Balakan–Lahagdeki border crossing is a remote one, meaning very few people use it. This made the whole process wonderfully quick. We were stamped out of Azerbaijan, walked about 500 metres (including crossing a stunning river), changed some money, got stamped into Georgia, and were in a taxi heading to Telavi — all within about 30 minutes.

After a rather hairy two-hour drive to Telavi (Georgians are some of the most insane drivers I’ve ever encountered), we arrived at our beautiful guesthouse. We had a lovely private suite with a huge shady terrace overlooking a peaceful garden. Breakfast every morning on the terrace was an incredible spread of homemade jams, compotes, fresh yoghurt, fruit, and all sorts of other goodies — we were truly spoiled.

Telavi is the main town in Georgia’s Kakheti wine region. Perched high on a hill, it offers stunning views over the Alazani Valley and the Caucasus Mountains, and its elevation keeps it pleasantly cooler than the valley below. We immediately fell in love with the town — big enough to have good restaurants, shops, and sights, but small enough to explore easily on foot.

We took day trips to Gremi Fortress, Nekresi Monastery high on a mountainside, the Chavchavadze Estate, and several wineries. Most days, however, you’d find us wandering the town, visiting the market, or admiring the old buildings. In the evenings we often joined a Canadian couple we met on the bus for a drink.

From Telavi we ventured to the small walled hilltop town of Sighnaghi. It reminded me a little of the Tuscan hill towns in Italy — very pretty with beautiful old buildings (many in ruins) and breathtaking views across the valley.

Throughout Georgia and the former Soviet countries we visited, we saw many abandoned buildings. After the Bolsheviks took power in 1921, many grand properties were seized. They often remained empty for the entire Soviet period and for decades afterwards while the countries rebuilt. It was sobering to see the faded grandeur of what once was.